this sport.
Yes, you are on the right track with your program. Your cycles are very well
designed and difficult to add too much to what you are already doing.
Maximum strength (MxS) is the key element in your training but you should
also add an exercise for the lats muscles. A pulling exercise will be very
beneficial, as close to the angle you use in competitions.
Let m reply to your questions (bellow):
>From: RAZA <paulbarraza@gmail.com>
>To: <tudor.bompa@sympatico.ca>
>Subject: RE: periodization plan for competitive rock climbing
>Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 14:14:14 -0800
>Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 14:14:14 -0800
- Show quoted text -
>
>Mr. Bompa,
>
>Will Wangensteen forwarded this message to me so I could ask you a few
>questions to clarify about our adaption of your training program to
>bouldering.
>
>Just for background, the type climbing that we are doing is called
>Bouldering which involves just a few, very difficult moves. The climbs are
>usually no longer than 8 moves long. Most all other styles of climbing are
>much more endurance oriented, which is why we have been focusing on Maximum
>Strength and not on Muscle Endurance.
>
>Typically we do two training cycles, one to prepare for the fall season (9
>weeks) and one to prepare for the spring season (6 weeks). Our target peak
>dates are the end of November and the beginning of April.
>
>Each training cycle consists of:
>1. Anatomical Adaption, (we call it 'base') 3 sets of 12 reps with many
>different exercises. We skip hypertrophy since strength to weight ratio is
>of maximum importance.
>
>2. Maximum Strength, 9 week (maximum load method program for Olympic-class
>sprinter) see attached picture. For the spring we do the first 6
>weeks. For the most important pulling exercises like weighted pull ups and
>one-arm pull downs, we use complex training. (immediately after doing the
>weights we do plyometric exercises on the campus board)
>
>3. Conversion, which entails bouldering a lot, Campus (see attached photo)
>and muscle up type exercises (light weights as fast as possible)
>
>4. Bouldering season
>
>5. Rest & recovery
>
>The most important muscles used in bouldering are the biceps and
>forearms for hand strength, closely follow by the abs.
>
>Now, the questions...
>1. Is there a better maximum load method program for the biceps &
>pulling muscles than the one we're using?
>
-as much as possible you should use heavier loads for MxS, such as 90-95%.
Equaly important is to use eccentric training where the load can be
130-150%. At times you may use a partner. For instance you may use chin-ups
but negatively, meaning you have to lower the action (eccentric) with extra
weight attached to your legs.
Equaly important is to use eccentric training where the load can be
130-150%. At times you may use a partner. For instance you may use chin-ups
but negatively, meaning you have to lower the action (eccentric) with extra
weight attached to your legs.
>2. Your book shows a 6 week base program, is that the ideal length for
>a 9 week training session? How many weeks of base would be good for
>the 6 week training session?
- your cycle is well designed. However, since you have a good base now try
to use 9 weeks MxS, where in te last 3 weeks you can use eccentric. But
eccentric training just for the pulling muscles can be strted earleir, in
which case you can have 6 weeks for eccentric but only for the pulling
muscles. Reason: eccentric training and is more stressful. Also a 9 weeks
MxS is quite challenging.
This is why I have suggested eccentric training for the last 6 weekks (of
the total of 9 weeks) but
only for the pulling muscles. The other exercises and loading can be trained
the wway you train right now.
to use 9 weeks MxS, where in te last 3 weeks you can use eccentric. But
eccentric training just for the pulling muscles can be strted earleir, in
which case you can have 6 weeks for eccentric but only for the pulling
muscles. Reason: eccentric training and is more stressful. Also a 9 weeks
MxS is quite challenging.
This is why I have suggested eccentric training for the last 6 weekks (of
the total of 9 weeks) but
only for the pulling muscles. The other exercises and loading can be trained
the wway you train right now.
>3. To increase hand strength we do isometric hangs from climbing holds
>with weight that depends on the grip type. We try to find a weight
>that creates failure within 10-15 seconds (70%), 8-12 sec., (80%)
>and 4-8 sec. (90%). There has been some debate within our group about
>how to best increase hand strength. What are your views on this?
-you're right. Finger flexors (gripping) are essential. You can use hand
grip dynamometers and anything else that allows you to flex and extend the
fingers.Wrist flexion may also help but flexions for the fingers are
essential. Your group has to realise that when finger flexors do fatigue it
negatively affects pulling actions. Remember the idea of the weakest
link...Well, finger flexors might be a weak link if not trained properly.
Certaily, you can use isometric training but fingers flexion is very
beneficial. You may also try chi-ups but the grip should be performed only
with the fingers. Do not use use the traditional chin-up grip.
grip dynamometers and anything else that allows you to flex and extend the
fingers.Wrist flexion may also help but flexions for the fingers are
essential. Your group has to realise that when finger flexors do fatigue it
negatively affects pulling actions. Remember the idea of the weakest
link...Well, finger flexors might be a weak link if not trained properly.
Certaily, you can use isometric training but fingers flexion is very
beneficial. You may also try chi-ups but the grip should be performed only
with the fingers. Do not use use the traditional chin-up grip.
>4. What is the best way to figure out your One Rep Max? We have yet to
>find
>a very scientific method. Some climbers adjust the weight until the can
>only do one rep, other use online calculators, like:
>http://www.exrx.net/Calculator
>
-calculators are OK but after a while is not difficult to gues the load you
can start to find out 1RM. The method you have specified above is use by
many other athletes. Simple and effective. It doesn't take too much time to
figue out 1RM.
can start to find out 1RM. The method you have specified above is use by
many other athletes. Simple and effective. It doesn't take too much time to
figue out 1RM.
>5. How many weeks should conversion be?
-your conversion is quite different than in other sports. A 3-5 weeks is
plenty and I assume it is mostly specific training. However, make sure you
are maintaining MxS sinc this type of strength is determinant
plenty and I assume it is mostly specific training. However, make sure you
are maintaining MxS sinc this type of strength is determinant
>6. Lastly, is there anything big that we are missing?
>
-I don't think so. As you'll continue to use the above cycles you may learn
more things about aplication of the MxS method.
I believe we have touched the main points.
Good luck,
Tudor O. Bompa
more things about aplication of the MxS method.
I believe we have touched the main points.
Good luck,
Tudor O. Bompa
- Show quoted text -
>Thank you so much for taking the time to review our training program, I
>really appreciate it.
>
>Sincerely,
>Paul Barraza
>Berkeley, CA
>
>
>On 2/28/07, will william <ww8a@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >From: <tudor.bompa@sympatico.ca>
>> >To: ww8a@hotmail.com
>> >Subject: RE: periodization plan for competetive rock climbing
>> >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 16:17:13 +0000
>> >
>> >Thanks Will for your message.
>> >Certainly, you really have to adapt some of the programs from my book to
>> >your needs and the specifics of bouldering.
>> >I have to assume that you need to main qualities to train:
>> >1. maximum strength, as it will give you the ability to very effectively
>> >deal with own body weight, and
>> >2. musscle-endurance. This type of training will assist you in climbing
>for
>> >longer period of time, a reality in your sport.
>> >Right now I don't have a program to suggest to you. However, if you have
>a
>> >program made for your group and want to share it with me, I'll do my
>>best
>> >to react to it, make eventual suggestions.
>> >If you'll decide to do so please also mail me the date(s) you want to
>peak
>> >for.
>> >Good luck,
>> >Tudor Bompa
>> >
>> >
>> >>From: "will william" <ww8a@hotmail.com>
>> >>To: <tudor.bompa@sympatico.ca>
>> >>Subject: periodization plan for competetive rock climbing
>> >>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 22:04:19 -0800
>> >>
>> >>To Dr. Tudor Bompa,
>> >> I am a competetive rock climber who specializes in bouldering that
>> >>currently resides in San Francisco, Ca. A small group of the top
>climbers
>> >>in the area are currently using the 9 week training program for olympic
>> >>class sprinters from your 'periodization training for sports' book. We
>> >>have adapted the exercises to be more sport specific to climbing
>> >>(bouldering). We are interested to know if a program currently exists
>and
>> >>is available that is climbing (bouldering) specific. If such a program
>> >>does not exist what options are available to us to have one designed.
>> >>
>> >>Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
>> >>Thank you for your time with this matter.
>> >>
>> >>Sincerely, William Wangensteen
>> >>
>> >>____________________________
>> >>Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more….then map the best
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>> >
>> >
>>
>>____________________________
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>>
>
>
>--
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>
>
>
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